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Top tips for working with silk
If you have never worked with silk before, it is well worth spending a little extra time at the planning stage of your first project to make sure you are satisfied with the finished article. Nothing else is quite like the luxurious feel and appearance of 100% pure silk, but an understanding of its characteristics and requirements is important, so read on. We hope you will find these tips helpful.
Using the right equipment
Needles
Working with silk is a lot easier than you might think. You do not need a specialist sewing machine; in fact it is a lot easier to work with than most synthetics. Always use a new needle in your sewing machine, a blunt needle or one with ‘burs’ will damage the fabric by catching and snagging the threads. A size 9 or 11 sharp needle is ideal for light to medium weight silks but for heavier weight fabrics, a 13 sharp is better. Never use a ballpoint needle, it will tear the fabric rather than going through the threads. Make sure your scissors are in tip-top condition and have a well sharpened pencil to hand. Never use a pen on silk, it will smudge and mark the article.
Threads
It is best to use a 100% cotton thread on light to medium weight silks. Cotton is weaker than silk and if an article is put under stress, it is better that the thread should break rather than be faced with a rip in the fabric. Heavier weight silks can tolerate a polyester and cotton mix thread. Always buy the right colour as you would for all your soft furnishings projects! A bad colour match on silk is much more noticeable than on other fabrics.
Stitching
Set the tension on your sewing machine fairly loose and with a stitch length of between 10– 12 stitches per inch for fine silk. For heavier silks, reduce this to 8–10 stitches per inch. It is possible to buy specialist silk pins, so try and use these if you can, they are less likely to leave pin marks on the finished article.
Linings, interlinings and zips
If you are working with a very fine silk, do not use a fusible buckram, keep this for heavier weight fabrics. A light to medium weight synthetic interlining I find best; do not use a heavy weight interlining, as its bulky appearance is not in keeping with fine silks. If you are going to insert a zip into a silk cushion, try to buy a light-weight variety to match the weight of the fabric you are working with.

If you are going to make silk curtains, you must take care to protect the fabric from direct sunlight or the fibres will rot and ruin the curtains. Always line silk curtains and if your funds will run to it, interline as well. If your window faces south then it might be best to use an alternative fabric as however well you have lined your curtains they will eventually fade and rot.

After care
You can wash silk but you must do so with extreme care. If you have spent a lot of time, money and effort on your silk project, then I feel it is well worth the extra investment in getting the article dry cleaned rather than risk washing it. Certainly you should never wash silk velvet or metallics, taffeta, brocade or satins and crepes.
Feel confident and ready to make a start?
Take a look at the following silk cushions, they should give you some inspiration. The gold cushion has a mitred border and an inset centre section with narrow pleats and a braid trim. The white silk fabric was bought already pleated forming a small diamond pattern.
Piped cushion with diamond pattern
Mitred border, pintucks and applied braid
Cushion with padded border and pintucks
Decorative finishes
If you are thinking of piping a silk cushion then use a fairly narrow piping cord. However, I feel that a better result is achieved by omitting the piping and instead running a narrow top stitched seam all around the cushions about 2 cms in from the outside edge. If the front of the cushion cover has previously been interlined, you will achieve a lovely padded finish. By incorporating this with a series of pintucks, your cushion can be transformed into something really special.
If you would like to finish off with something a little different, why not add some silk tassles to the corners for a really luxurious look, or mix your silk fabrics and finish off with a beaded trim.
Lavender bags
Lavender bags made with silk and decorative beaded trim
Silk accessories for the home can be stunning, from the subtle and elegant to the colourful and eye-catching! Why not make some small lavender bags for yourself as an attractive and sweet smelling accessory for any room in the house, or a really unique gift for a friend or relative.
Make 3 and tie with an organza bow. The bags could be pintucked, interlined or beaded.
Alternatives to working with real silk
Faux silk cushion with pintucks
There are a number of ‘look alike’ plain fabrics on the market that are easy to work with and have the appearance of real silk but without the disadvantages usually associated with the natural product.
They come in a wonderful array of colours and are suitable for making up into a wide range of soft furnishing items. If you are nervous about working with silk for your first few projects or are on a budget, then check them out and see if they would provide you with a viable alternative.
Good luck with your silk sewing projects. Our Special Christmas Feature will give you some ideas on how to make silk and velvet Christmas decorations, so visit us again soon.
Wendy Molnar
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